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Dad's Awesome Au Gratin Potatoes

I had a craving for my Dad’s Awesome Au Gratin potatoes yesterday. These are the potatoes that I grew up on. They are the ones that my father made for parties and family dinners.  Whenever we had a glazed ham, these potatoes were served as well. They are so good, but I hadn’t made them in a while.


Yesterday, I decided to resurrect the recipe right in my own little kitchen. I don’t have a formal handwritten recipe from my Dad. I just have the ingredient list and the steps in my head. So, late in the afternoon, I spontaneously gathered some potatoes, onions, cheese, milk and cream.  I grabbed a large au gratin dish and positioned the slicing disk into my Cuisinart Elite.


In short order, I was ready for action and within about 70 minutes, I had a fabulous au gratin on the kitchen counter.  When I pulled that au gratin out of the oven…it smelled like home!


Dad’s Awesome Au Gratin Potatoes
So, here are my loose steps for making my Dad’s Awesome Au Gratin Potatoes:   


Step One:  Preheat the oven to 350 F and oil the au gratin dish lightly.  Position the slicing disk in the food processor. (I used my Cuisinart Elite. The slicing disk was set at 6)


Step Two: Peel about five medium russet potatoes. Feed the potatoes through the feed tube in order to get beautiful sliced potatoes. Transfer the potatoes to a bowl. Take about ½ an onion, peeled, and feed that through the Cuisinart feed tube.  Transfer the onion to another bowl.


Step Three: Remove the slicing disk from the Cuisinart and position the coarse shredding disk. (Note: You don’t need to wash the work bowl because the cheese is going to go into the casserole with the potatoes and the onions.) Shred about six ounces of Swiss cheese. (I used Kerrygold Swiss last night…It was outstanding. And it’s worth noting that I didn’t use a ton of cheese…just enough to add flavor without masking the flavor of the potatoes. )


Step Four: Layer the potato slices on the bottom of the au gratin dish. Sprinkle with some onion slices and season with salt, pepper, and about a tablespoon of flour. Add a little cheese and top with another layer of potatoes, onions, and a little flour. I created about three layers in my au gratin last night.


Step Five: Pour about ¾ cup of milk/cream over the mixture, add a final layer of cheese, and cover with foil.


Step Six:  Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes and then remove the foil. Bake for about another 25 minutes until nicely browned. Note: My baking time might seem lengthy, but it seemed just about right…and it was long enough that I was able to walk to the library, read a few issues of Writer’s Digest, do some research, check out a few books, and walk home…that took about 45 minutes. When I got home the foil was ready to be removed and the au gratin was ready to start browning up!


Served with homemade creamed spinach and rib roast, Dad’s Au Gratin Potatoes were simple perfection last night!


--Melissa A. Trainer

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Pickled Sockeye From Kodiak, Alaska

I love meeting small American purveyors who have created a viable business from a treasured family recipe! When I met Barbara Hughes in the seafood department of Shoreline's Central Market yesterday afternoon, I knew that I had found an all-American entrepreneur.


Barbara hails from Kodiak and recently launched Pickled Willy's with the help of her uncle, Bill Alwert. Bill, who lives on Kodiak and is known as "Pickled Willy," has been fishing the Kodiak region for more than fifty years. Everyone loves "Pickled Willy's" seafood creations and about ten months ago, Barbara told her uncle that he should start selling his pickled seafood. He agreed and gave her permission to go full throttle with the idea. Indeed, she did.


Working with a local seafood research organization on Kodiak, Barbara tweaked and perfected her uncle's recipe. She developed the label, found a processor, created a marketing plan, and entered her products in this year's Alaska Symphony of Seafood.


Barbara won't know if her products have won anything at the Symphony of Seafood until the winners are announced in Anchorage next week. However, I have judged the Symphony in the prior years, and I would easily have given her products top marks on the judging sheet. When I sampled the salmon off a toothpick at Central Market yesterday, I was quite shocked. The pickled sockeye felt very substantial in my mouth...almost meaty. The flavor was wonderful--the fish wasn't at all fishy. It wasn't overly salty and the brine was exactly right. The whole impression was one of freshness and healthiness! It felt deliciously Scandinavian to me.


When I asked Barbara for serving tips, she told me to mix about 1/2 cup of sour cream with some fresh dill and then let that sit for a little while. She then told me to dice up the salmon and add it to the sour cream mixture. She suggested serving it on crackers and enjoying it with a chilled glass of white wine! Aha. I had just wrapped up a long, so these suggestions were right up my alley!


When I got home, I immediately tried Barbara's suggestion and served it to myself on a lavash cracker. It was perfect! Simultaneously fresh, clean, and rich.


So, folks, I think we have a winner here...


Photo by Melissa A. Trainer


--Melissa A. Trainer


 

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My Bristol Bay Memory Jars...

I love this photo of jarred Bristol Bay king and sockeye salmon...I received these jars from Patty Luckhurst when I was traveling throughout Alaska's Bristol Bay region last summer.  I was on a mission to see the salmon run when it arrived, so we were there right in the beginning of July.


Patty and her family took us under their wings and shared their life with us. We subsistence set netted on the beach early in the morning. We stood in their backyard and helped them process upteem fish the same day. We were taught how to gut and fillet the wild salmon in order to get the best results while drying and smoking the fish for the winter. We heard all the local opinions and arguments regarding the proposed Pebble Mine. And, we were given these jars of salmon, which had been prepared by Patty's husband, Vince.


I snapped this photo early one morning and did so right outside the wonderful little cabin in which we were staying. The birch trees were around me and these stumps were a handy prop. For me, they are a deliciously happy memory of a critically important trip.


--Melissa A. Trainer

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Kumamotos-The Delicious Immigrant!

Have you ever tried a kumamoto oyster from Taylor Shellfish? They are simply divine!


I first discovered these petite succulent oysters  when I was writing "Delicious Immigrant" for the Leisure and  Arts page of The Wall Street Journal. This was one of my first articles for the Journal and to this day it remains my favorite article. When I wrote the piece, I was fairly new to Seattle...the whole region was a blank slate for exploration. Having grown up on the South Shore of Long Island and spent my summers cavorting on Peconic Bay, I was well aware of how waterways and marine environments can be destroyed.


When I stepped onto those Totten Inlet tidelands late one night with Jon Rowley and Bill Taylor back in February of 1996, I felt like a little kid again. I was amazed that we could walk along the beach and simply slurp the oysters at our feet. It was a culinary revelation that I was so glad to be a part of. Back east, we were always warned that it "wasn't a good idea" to eat the shellfish we found on the beaches of Long Island. 


When I started to research this amazing little oyster that winter, I became completely fascinated by the oyster's history and the way in which it survived and thrived over the course of many years. Indeed, it wasn't a straight line between Japan and the Puget Sound, but it was the the commitment of some amazing researchers and dedicated oyster growers that literally brought it back from the deep blue sea!


For the history and background on this tideland treasure, read "Delicious Immigrant: The Kumamoto Oyster."


Photo of Taylor's Kumamoto Oysters by Carolyn B. Trainer

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Vintage Memories from Gourmet

When I worked at Gourmet Magazine in New York,  I had the pleasure of sitting right in the magazine's wonderful library. I loved this library. The carpet was thick, and the walls were lined with thousands of cookbooks. Of course, many of the books were fresh off the press. Others were published long long ago. Much to my delight, my desk sat right in the middle of it all!


As much as I loved this library, there was also a very very small library upstairs. I was often charged with the task of keeping this library tidy and preventing it from becoming just another storage closet. As a result, I rolled up my sleeves and checked this library often. While doing so,  I jettisoned the audio visual equipment into the hallway and then found myself pulling many of the wonderful vintage cookbooks off the shelves.  I absolutely adored these turn of the century cookbooks and cherished the wonderful pictures in each one. There were jelly molds and tea sandwiches. There were ornate cakes and massive roasts.There were sensible tips and diagrams on how to set up a buffet table. The books often reflected the excitement of new inventions such as  Crisco and baking powder.  Many were published by corporations, and the recipes were created by home economists.


I can't recall exactly which books had the biggest impact on me, but my work in that "secret little library" set me on a path for life. I now hunt down and collect vintage cookbooks. I don't go to auctions and bid on specialty cookbooks. I just ferret around at estate sales, garage sales, and used book sales. I have found many treasures over the years, and one of my most recent purchases is shown in this photo. I nailed it at a garage sale this summer. I love it for its simplicity and for its timeless role in America's culinary culture. It isn't just a cookbook, it is a primary document that reflects a culinary moment in time.


Do you have any wonderful vintage cookbooks?


Photo by Melissa A. Trainer

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Snow Cuisine in Cordova

So, what do you cook when the snow hits hard in your region? Seattle is getting its first storm of the season. Schools were closed yesterday. They are closed again today. Roads are icy. The snow is falling right now. Temperatures are chilly. The wind is picking up.


Yesterday, I opted to stock up on some basics, such as eggs, milk, bread. I also hauled out my large Le Creuset Dutch oven and cranked out a large pot of beef and carrot stew. Served with mashed potatoes last night, it got a thumbs up from the crowd.


When I lived in Anchorage a few years ago, I often baked during a snowstorm...we had lots of storms that winter so I baked a lot. I started making my Jumbleberry Jam Bars back then. And, I often had hot cocoa and Abby Mandel's food processor millet cookies ready for the kids in the afternoon. In Alaska, the kids go to school whether there is snow or not. So, having homemade baked goods for the children after they trudged through the snow was always fun.


While watching the events unfold in Cordova this month, I began to wonder what everyone was cooking and baking up there. Cordova is a small remote town. There are very few restaurants and grocery stores. Homecooking is alive and well in this small town, so I began to think about how the residents were managing to shovel that much snow and also feed their families.The snow situation got so bad that the National Guard was called in to assist with snow removal.


Beth Poole of Copper River Marketing told me that everyone was cooking and eating well. Even with the crisis at hand, homecooking prevailed. I honestly don't know how they managed to do it. Impromptu menus included Moose Sirloin Roast, Deer Stew, Coho Salmon and Eggplant Curry, Homemade Pizzas, and Roasted Red Pepper Soup. Michele Buckhorn, a PhD Fish Ecologist with the Prince William Sound Science Center, also contacted me. She also confirmed that she, too, was cooking at home, cranking out pork carnitas and savory beef burgers.


So, what do you cook or bake when the snow begins to mound outside your door? For the latest video on the snow removal in Cordova, check this out!


Photo courtesy of Beth Poole


--Melissa A. Trainer

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Camping: Spontaneous or Planned?

Do you have a method for planning your road trips or vacations? What's your style? Do you dutifully sit down in January and target where and when you will go to specific destinations? Or, do you just “wing it” once the official camping season kicks off in the spring?


I have to admit that I have waffled between both methods over the years.  I am, in fact, still waffling! When we first started camping and our children were very young, I was pretty strict about planning in advance, pinpointing destinations, and then making reservations. I have vivid recollections of often doing this ten months in advance.


Back then, it was a system that I needed to have in place.  Packing food, kids, cars, and gear can be a monumental task. I knew I didn’t want to take the spontaneous route only to find out that the car was loaded and the campgrounds were too! Traveling and camping with young children can be challenging.  I needed the certainty of knowing that we had a good campsite waiting for us at the end of the day. 


As our children got a little older, I became more comfortable with “winging it.” Our first experience was when we drove the Alaska Highway from Anchorage back to Seattle. We didn’t have reservations at campsites en route because we didn’t know how far we would want to drive each day.  The trip was great and the lack of a strict itinerary gave us a little more freedom and flexibility each day. 


We really took our time and visited many of the wonderful historic museums and towns en route.  We stopped and enjoyed the amazing scenery in Yukon Territory and marveled at the lovely town of  Whitehorse.  In Northern British Columbia, we talked at length to a German family who was driving a massive retrofitted map-decorated vehicle around the world…yes, around the world!  I think if we had strict reservations at that time, we wouldn’t have been as willing to take our time and enjoy the trip.  It certainly wouldn’t have been as memorable as it is now…my kids still talk about that family from Germany!


Now that my children are older, it is admittedly even more difficult to book in advance because they often have activities and obligations themselves during the summer months. So, lately, we’ve been a little looser in our summer plans, waiting til closer to the start of the season to book.  Now that it is January, I am looking ahead. We haven’t planned any camping trips just yet, but I am starting to consider our options…Any thoughts on the various methods? Planned or spontaneous? What have some of your best trips been? Were they planned or were they impromptu operations?


Photo by Melissa A. Trainer


–Melissa A. Trainer

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Harvest Salmon Chowder

If you travel and camp throughout the chillier months of the year, then you might find yourself craving foods such as chili, stew, soups and chowder.


Last fall, I created a round of recipes for the Bristol Bay Regional Seafood Development Association. Their consumer website, Bristol Bay Sockeye, features numerous salmon recipes. One of the recipes I tested, tweaked, and photographed was Harvest Salmon Chowder. The recipe comes from Rose Fisher who is married to a Bristol Bay fisherman and lives in Dillingham, Alaska. When Rose gave me the recipe she quietly told me that the secret to the recipe was…canned salmon and all the juices!!  She told me that she had made it with cooked salmon, but it just wasn’t the same. Aha! I am not afraid to use canned salmon, so I was pleased to try the recipe. Indeed, it is a simple awesome recipe that is satisfying and warming.


I think this recipe is particularly relevant for outdoor enthusiasts and RVers because it uses many basic pantry items, such as canned sockeye salmon, evaporated milk, creamed corn, potatoes, and onions.  Many of the ingredients are easily stored in a travel trailer or an RV kitchen, so I thought it would be fun to share it with all of you.  The creamy chowder comes together quickly and requires a minimal amount of equipment–cutting board, knife, good saucepan,  rubber spatula, and some soup bowls. So, if you like to savor chowder on cold winter nights, click here and scroll down four or five recipes for the Harvest Salmon Chowder recipe.


Photo by Melissa A. Trainer


–Melissa A. Trainer

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Bake Like Sarabeth!

I finally purchased a copy of Sarabeth's Bakery, From My Hands to Yours. I have fond memories of Sarabeth's in New York and when the book was released recently, I decided that I had to have a copy. The book is a massive treasure trove that begs to be read again and again.


Sarabeth Levine is a woman who has mastered her craft. I often get befuddled when I read cookbooks today. To me, many of them seem useless and fairly light. While reading recipes in many of these books, I read between the lines and often question how carefully the recipes have been tested. I wonder if the author really mastered the recipes at hand or if the recipes were conveniently "tweaked" at the keyboard. 


Thankfully, I didn't sense any of that editorial nonsense when I read Sarabeth's book last night. Sarabeth started her New York-based business in her apartment in 1981. The business eventually had to be moved to a bigger location and thus her delicious empire was born. She has been baking at the helm ever since. Such experience and dedication to her craft permeate every recipe and every word in her book, which, by the way, is her first. Although the recipes appear quite long and sometimes go on for two pages, they are incredibly detailed and remarkably informative.


Sarabeth includes the nuances that make the difference. For example, she clearly tells her reader which speed to use on the KitchenAid and then tells them exactly how long to run the machine. She also clearly states her preference for traditional kugelhopf molds and explains why the thinner pans produce a better product than some of the other tube pans on the market. Many of the steps in the recipes clearly correspond to numbered photographs, which aid considerably in more difficult time-consuming recipes. And, when it comes to making jam, Sarabeth tells us that it's okay for the jam to be runny because a looser jam retains more of the natural flavor of the fruit.


I must admit that I haven't tried any of the recipes just yet, but I have earmarked quite a few. At the top of my list? Sarabeth's Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies.  I grew up visiting Sarabeth's...it is nice to have a delicious and carefully crafted taste of home!


--Melissa A. Trainer

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Classic Salmon Dip from Copper River

Here in the Pacific Northwest there are a seemingly endless array of smoked salmon dips. Personally, I love smoked salmon dips, so when a recipe for one landed in my mailbox yesterday, I just had to try it.


I received my holiday card from Beth Poole, who is the Executive Director of the Copper River/Prince William Sound Marketing Association. I met Beth last September when she invited me to Cordova for a visit. I had a fabulous time visiting this Alaskan fishing village and seeing the Copper River for the first time. Even though it was fiercely windy when we were there, Beth managed to cover a lot of territory. We toured the Copper River Seafoods processing facility and met Pip Fillingham, who is one of the owners. While there, we saw their smoking room where they process their wonderful whole fillets, which by the way can be purchased right here on Amazon!


This morning, I didn't happen to have a Copper River smoked salmon fillet handy so I grabbed a can of smoked sockeye that I had purchased at Prime Select Seafoods while I was in Cordova. I quickly adapted the recipe by pulsing all the ingredients in the food processor. The dip came together in a flash and is indeed very addictive...I've had numerous swipes with a cracker already.  Here is the recipe as it appears on my holiday greetings card from Beth:


Copper River Smoked Salmon Dip


8 ounces cream cheese, softened


3/4 cup sour cream


1 tablespoon lemon juice


1 tablespoon grated onion


1 teaspoon horseradish


1/4 teaspoon salt


1 1/2 cups smoked salmon, flaked or chopped


1/2 cup chopped pecans


2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped


Combine cream cheese, sour cream, lemon juice, onion, horseradish, and salt. Stir in salmon and mix thoroughly. Transfer to a serving bowl. Combine the chopped pecans and parsley and sprinkle over the top of the smoked salmon mixture. Serve with assorted crackers and endive spears. Makes 3 cups.


Note: I snapped this photo at Copper River Seafoods in September. The photo shows the salmon after it was smoked and before it was put in the retort packages for pressure cooking.


--Melissa A. Trainer

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